Wednesday, February 21, 2007

This I believe

I hope I'm posting the right thing, but here's my This I believe Essay, and tell me what you think.



My name is Sho Hasegawa, I am pretty new to surfing, but I have begun to like it a lot already. I learned on a longboard, and still continue to surf at Diamondhead and Canoes on my longboard. Don’t get me wrong. I’m not good or anything, so don’t assume anything. When I first began surfing, I was nervous, didn’t know what was really going on; the usual “first-time” feeing. But as soon as I caught my first wave on a surfboard, it felt pretty cool. Paddling on my board in Canoes, Waikiki, it was a beautiful, warm summer day. I bet you remember your first day as a surfer. Say you’re not a surfer though. I bet you remember your first day of something big. Trying out something almost completely new to you.
Surfing is great because although it may sound corny and all that, it is pretty peaceful. It helps me to relax and it feels like nothing is there except for me and the waves. The clear, ocean water crashing down on me as I paddle to catch the wave is just cool. Just imagining that relaxes me.
Having fun is the most important part of all. Isn’t it why you surf? So you’re asking me “Why are you telling us all this crap about what surfing is and all this corny stuff?” Well, here’s what. One of 4 things will happen to you when you surf. Number one: you catch the wave. Number two: You miss the wave. Number three: The wave does something unexpected (or you do) and you wipe out during your ride back to shore. Last, but not least, number four: You ride the wave all the way back into shore and have a great experience and adrenalin rush.
OK, so what is this whole thing about what happens when you surf? Well, let me explain. Catching the wave is like taking the opportunity when it comes your way. Missing the wave means you let an opportunity slip by. Wiping out means you didn’t get what you wanted, when taking the opportunity and riding with it. Or you did something wrong during the ride. Riding the wave all the way back means you got the award you seeked when taking the opportunity and did the right things at the right time.

In life, you’re prepared. I know I am. I have the right tools, like the surfboard. I have the proper skills and technique to ride it all the way back to shore. Sometimes, you get too anxious and you just go and force yourself to surf. You go when the surf is small, when the surf isn’t up. You start paddling for waves that are too small when you get anxious, and you can’t catch it and you miss a big wave right after because you got too anxious and couldn’t wait it out. I know I’m like that both out in the water and in life. You get frustrated and can’t do anything about it and you start going downhill. I suggest you paddle back out and wait for the wave of your life.


All this is bound to change, a couple words, how I say things, etc. But the whole layout and everything is goin g to stay the same so tell me what you think. That'd be nice.

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